DAMASCUS – One of the world’s oldest cities, Damascus resembles a wounded city in every way. In every building, it is possible to see traces of a story left unfinished by the war. While the “normal flow” continues, differing from other regions, perceptions of North and East Syria have begun to change. 

 

The “Arab Spring,” which began in Tunisia on 17 December 2010 when a street vendor named Mohamed Bouazizi set himself on fire and later spread to many countries, opened the door to a new era in the region. Popular movements against corruption, unemployment and injustice increased hopes for change in the region and led to the overthrow of some dictators. However, on the other hand, it also brought prolonged crises and conflicts in some places. 

 

Syria is at the forefront of the countries where this process has been most violent and bloody. Hundreds of thousands of people lost their lives in the civil war that broke out in March 2011, and millions were forced to flee. The conflicts, which continued for years, reached the centre of the capital Damascus towards the end of 2024, and on 8 December 2024, the Assad regime was overthrown.

 

The equation in the region changed with the rise to power of Hayat Tahrir al-Sham (HTS), formed from the renaming of the Al-Nusra Front, the Syrian branch of Al-Qaeda, and the gathering of several other groups around it. As Russia and Iran withdrew from the region, the influence of the US and Israel increased. How the region will shape up in the coming period remains uncertain.  

 

JOURNEY TO DAMASCUS

 

Between 13 and 20 November, I had the opportunity to visit Syria for the first time, thanks to the 5th Rojava International Film Festival held in Qamishlo. I believe this visit was the first visit to Syria by Free Press workers from Northern Kurdistan (Turkey) in a long time. 

 

My first stop in a country exhausted by 14 years of uninterrupted war was the capital, Damascus. Since January 2025, there have been regular flights here from both Ankara and Istanbul. After debating whether to fly from Istanbul or Ankara, I decided that flying from Istanbul might be "safer" and set off with a few pieces of luggage and equipment. 

 

After enduring an endless queue at Sabiha Gökçen Airport, I completed my passport formalities and waited to find out which gate my flight to Damascus International Airport would depart from. After a while, the screen showed that boarding for the flight to Damascus would take place at a gate in the far corner of the airport's lowest level. 

 

While there was nowhere to sit in front of the other international gates, the Damascus gate was quiet. It was a relief to be able to sit down somewhere rather than stand for minutes on end with two heavy bags.

 

UNHAPPINESS AND ANXIETY

 

Following the announcement, passengers queued up to board. Almost all the passengers, except me, had Syrian Arab Republic written on their passports. The bus filled up quickly as there was no queue. It departed as soon as the passenger who had been running to catch it boarded.

 

Watching from a corner, I noticed that there was not even the slightest hint of a smile on anyone's face on the bus. It was as if everyone was unhappy, anxious and nervous. Those who knew each other spoke in hushed tones, careful not to be overheard by others. 

 

This situation increased the anxiety I had felt when I decided to make the journey via Damascus. Even though I had never seen it before, it felt like I was travelling to a city struggling with war, poverty and crisis. 

 

After a short 3-5 minutes, the doors opened and we headed for the plane. The elderly moved quickly to stow their bags, while the young people took photos with the plane before climbing the stairs.

 

SAME GEOGRAPHY, SAME PROBLEM: FLIGHTS WITHOUT A NATIVE LANGUAGE!  

 

After the doors closed, I realised for the first time how empty the plane was. Either the number of people returning to their country or the number of people wanting to travel by air was low. Just before take-off, the cabin crew began explaining the warnings about what to do in case of an emergency or unexpected situation. 

 

Some passengers kept their eyes on the cabin crew, while others tried to understand what was being said by looking at the warning signs on the back of their seats. The announcements in Turkish and English ended, but there were no announcements in the native language of the passengers, the vast majority of whom were Arab. 

 

Just like the practice on flights departing from Kurdistan: announcements in languages other than the official and "international" language were prohibited. This was a summary of the fate imposed on the ancient peoples of this region.  

 

DUSTY ROADS AND A WEARY CITY 

 

Due to the cloudy and overcast weather, it was impossible to make out settlements on the ground until the plane began its descent. As the aircraft touched down in Damascus, I hurriedly opened my phone to contact the taxi driver who was to pick me up. However, I realised that Turkish mobile networks did not work here. Fortunately, a man in his fifties sitting next to me helped me connect to the internet. When I said "Wi-Fi", he nodded his head, indicating he could help by turning on his phone's mobile data. 

 

The visa period, which is 30 days in many countries, is only 15 days here. I didn't even question why, thinking it could be even less. Finally, I arrived in Damascus without incident and got my visa at the gate. I was also very pleased to meet two director friends who were coming to the festival at the airport exit. Without waiting long, I got into a taxi and began to feel the excitement of going to Qamishlo.  

 

As I tried to make out the city's buildings through the dusty roads, I thought about how this ancient city, once the heart of trade, had become the centre of crisis and chaos. Looking out the taxi window, I felt as if I could see the traces of an unfinished story on the surface of every building.

 

ONE OF THE WORLD'S OLDEST CITIES 

 

Before the civil war, Damascus was the country's largest city with a population of 4.5 million. However, with the outbreak of hostilities, it experienced both significant emigration and immigration. No one knows how many people currently reside in the city! 

 

Although not known for certain, its history is said to date back to 8,000 BC. It also holds the title of "one of the world's oldest cities." For centuries, it has been one of the region's important centres in terms of culture, trade, and administration.

 

 

A city bearing the traces of many eras and civilisations in its architecture, streets, gardens and houses. Although it is an important city in terms of history and culture, it has suffered great destruction due to years of civil war. 

 

Both its historical architecture and its rich demographics have suffered greatly due to ideological attacks. This situation is evident as soon as one sets foot in the city. 

 

THE LIVING TRACES OF WAR 

 

Heading from the airport exit towards the city centre, one encounters dozens of destroyed buildings and burnt-out vehicles on both sides of the road. The destruction in the outlying neighbourhoods is more extensive than in the centre. As one approaches the heart of the city, the ruins become fewer; however, the traces of war and crisis are still vivid. 

 

The architecture of the city centre leaves visitors in awe. Stone houses, wooden carved balconies, the beauty of the streets and avenues... Although the light-coloured exterior cladding of the buildings has faded over time due to dust and scorching heat, they have lost none of their beauty.

 

'NORMAL' LIFE CONTINUES 

 

Daily life continues in its “normal” flow. However, this normality bears no resemblance to normality in other parts of the world. An explosion could occur anywhere in the city at any moment, people could fall victim to a stray bullet, or chaos could erupt. After years of this situation, it has now become the "normal" for both the city and its inhabitants.

 

 

Not only that, but even if the regime changed overnight, very few people would ask "why and how it changed". People have become accustomed to this situation. Fears such as death and injury have been overcome by many. Therefore, even if Assad fell, it would not be very difficult to "get used" to the new regime. 

 

NOT SUBMITTING TO THE REGIME'S PRACTICES 

 

This "habit" has not meant accepting the practices of the new regime. Almost all segments of society have preserved their uniqueness. Although the new regime has tried to impose its own practices, this has not been accepted. For example, Christians in their neighbourhood have not bowed to the pressures of the new regime. They have not compromised on their clothing, their drinks, or their social life. Although the regime is opposed to this, it seems to have accepted the situation.  

 

While it is forbidden to walk around at night in other cities under HTS control, the situation is different in Damascus. Nightlife is still very lively. There is endless energy.  

 

A CITY 'WOUNDED' IN EVERY WAY 

 

The following can also be said about the city where we could only stay for one night:

 

* The city's infrastructure has suffered extensive damage. Emergency aid and medical support are very limited. 

 

* With the increase in fighting and the change of regime, the number of tourists coming to the country has decreased to almost nothing. 

 

* Heavy “security” measures have become part of daily life. It is possible to encounter armed HTS members on all streets and avenues. There are also checkpoints at the city's entrances and exits. 

 

* Heavy migration, combined with the damage to infrastructure, has caused rents to skyrocket. 

 

* Power cuts continue. There are outages every three hours. In some places, power cuts can last even longer. 

 

* The city's water is quite dirty. Drinking water is a major problem. 

 

* The prices of many daily necessities, from food and drink to clothing, have risen significantly in recent years. Some factories are unusable, and foreign investment is virtually non-existent. 

 

* Outside the main streets, it is possible to see closed businesses throughout the city. Furthermore, there is a silence surrounding the old markets we used to see in newspapers and on television. 

 

* You may encounter a motorcyclist at any moment. There are no traffic lights or road signs on the roads. This makes it difficult to reach a destination. Travelling with someone who knows the city is essential, both for getting through checkpoints and reaching your destination. 

 

* It is possible to see luxury or new vehicles in the city. However, in general, the models of the vehicles are quite old. Public transport vehicles are almost unusable. The mechanical noises they make cause significant pollution. 

 

* Pollution is one of the first things you notice. You can find piles of rubbish everywhere. In addition to the foul smell rising from the rubbish, it is possible to say that the smell of diesel fuel permeates the entire city.

 

WOMEN ARE BEING TRANSPORTED IN THE BACK OF VEHICLES!

 

 

Of course, in a city that is "wounded" in every sense, the situation of women is one of the most pressing issues. It is impossible to encounter women in many parts of the city centre. The main streets are safer, so women can walk around more comfortably, shop or sit in a business there. When we asked, we learned that after the regime change, many women were forced to wear headscarves. However, there are also quite a few women who resist this. Women from different faiths and ethnic groups, in particular, oppose this practice. 

 

On the other hand, it would not be wrong to say that all the codes of the patriarchal system are in force here. Power, authority and decision-making processes are predominantly in the hands of men. Women are virtually absent in cultural, economic and legal spheres. 

 

Another noteworthy point is that women are forced to travel in the open rear compartments of vehicles, except for public transport. Although women are allowed to sit in the front of the vehicle, they are generally forced to travel in the open rear compartments.

 

HOW IS NORTH AND EAST SYRIA PERCEIVED? 

 

Another topic of interest is how discussions about North and East Syria are reflected and debated in the capital, Damascus. What has been happening in cities with large Kurdish populations, and even the very existence of Kurds, has been hidden from the people here for many years. During the Baathist regime, the Kurds were consistently ignored by both state-affiliated media outlets and other press channels. They were also portrayed as Arabs. 

 

A segment of society still views the Kurds as nomads who have not settled down. They see them as a "species" that is unaware of the world, lacking any technological tools in the geography they inhabit. Of course, it is possible to say that the main reason for all this stems from the policies of the Baath regime. The distance between Rojava and Damascus, the scarcity of settlements in this area, and the fact that trade relations are established with different countries are factors whose impact cannot be underestimated.

 

THERE IS A GAP    

    

The situation here bears a striking resemblance to that of Turkey during a certain period. A perception similar to the "Tailed Kurds" created in Turkey has been created here. This perception has changed in recent years. Particularly after the Rojava Revolution, a consciousness of Kurdish existence has emerged. Those who are aware of this situation have a great deal of sympathy for Rojava. A considerable number of people believe that a system similar to the one established there should be spread throughout the entire country. For this reason, it is thought that the integration process, which has been discussed recently, should be accelerated.  

 

However, there is also a significant segment of society that is unaware of the new life being built in North and East Syria and acts according to patriarchal codes. It cannot be said that the life being built in North and East Syria has fully reflected here yet. Both the policies of the current regime and the difficulties created by the conditions of war have had a major impact on this. 

 

Tomorrow: Two separate lives in Deir Ez-zor

 

MA / Azad Altay